After more than 50 years at the two-Michelin-starred Auberge de l'Ill, famous sommelier Serge Dubs will retire this Monday, July 13, 2026. Over time, close bonds have been forged—not only between the glass and the plate, but also between the sommelier and the Haeberlin family.

In the kitchens of the Auberge de l'Ill (Illhaeusern, Haut-Rhin), the atmosphere is somewhat formal. Not because the lunch service is approaching, but because Serge Dubs' retirement is near—the definitive end of his tenure, after more than 50 years as a sommelier at the establishment.

"He's wonderful," "look at him crying." Wine. This is what unites these two men, one of whom, Marc Haeberlin, happens to have a tear in his eye as well. Serge Dubs and Haeberlin are like an elderly married couple, having grown better with age. Complementary, each with his own palate.

50 Years of Coexistence

"Yes, we have lived together for over 50 years. We met at Lasserre in Paris; he was in the dining room, where he discovered sommellerie. I was in the kitchen there; we have never left each other's side. We have often traveled around the world together, for receptions all over the globe. Serge was always by my side, and he is part of the inn's very walls, just as he is part of the family," explains Marc Haeberlin.

Serge Dubs was 19 years old when he first started working at the Auberge de l'Ill as a waiter. He is now 73 years old. An exceptional longevity. The heart has its reasons.

"Haha, well, the reason he stayed so long is that his wife is from Illhaeusern. Béatrice. That helps keep the staff local." Serge, standing beside him, nods in agreement. Of course, he remembers meeting Béatrice, who was then a waitress at the Auberge de l'Ill, but another memory stays with him.

"On the first day, when I arrived here to introduce myself to Mr. Jean-Pierre, I saw that there were some beautiful waitresses, it's true. When I tasted Mr. Haeberlin's peach dessert, I thought: this is impossible, this restaurant is exceptional. I was hooked. And then, the atmosphere there. I was 19 years old, had just left the army, I was dazzled, and I prayed to God that they would hire us. I was so happy here."

Jean-Pierre was Jean-Pierre Stoeckel, the Best Sommelier of France in 1972, who gave him the keys to understanding wines and, later, those to his own cellar. In 1976, he became head sommelier at the Auberge de l'Ill. His destiny was clear.

"He had a beautiful vocabulary that made you dream. He had everything it took to succeed, but only if you worked hard, and I loved the contact with customers, the encounters, the discoveries. I often say that I didn't follow the path of elite schools, I followed the path of great wines—that's not bad, and there is never an end to it. Besides, it's not over yet, I will continue the journey."

Over 50 years, habits have inevitably been formed—almost automatic routines. Strong friendships have also developed. Marc Haeberlin cannot deny it; their close bond is so evident. "I like Serge's character and, above all, his vast knowledge and exceptional palate when it comes to wine, his experience. In fact, he has won the titles of Best Sommelier in the World, Best Sommelier in France, and Best Sommelier in Europe."

"I swore to myself that in whatever I did, I would be number one." — Serge Dubs, sommelier at Auberge de l'Ill

Yes, Serge Dubs won every competition. Best Sommelier of France in 1983, Best Sommelier of Europe and winner of the Master of Port competition in 1988, Best Sommelier of the World and UDSF Master Sommelier in 1989. Beneath his gentle appearance lies a fierce competitor, a tireless worker. "Yes, I won every competition. Except for the best young bartender competition in France. I swore that in whatever I did, I would be number one. For that, you need good support, and I had it."

King in His Cellar

Head down to the cellar, his domaine.

Here, in meticulously numbered lockers, lie great treasures that Serge knows like the back of his hand.

"Our goal is to make people happy. When people leave with a smile, it means you've done a good job, that you've respected the product." — Serge Dubs

"Here you have a Bordeaux Lafite Rothschild, over there a Mission Haut-Brion, a Château Beaucastel, Romanée-Conti—jewels. Every shelf is a dream because every wine has a story, a unique character. The cellar is alive, constantly renewing and adapting itself. Then, it's up to us to serve the bottles under the right conditions, at the right temperature, to open them at the right moment, paired with the right dishes. Our goal is to make people happy. When people leave with a smile, it means you've done a good job and respected the product."

Making people happy without getting them drunk—that is the hard part.

"I had a wonderful job because usually with jewels, you can only look at them or touch them. I taste them to see if there are any flaws. One or two centiliters, no more. Look, here are the Volnay Les Caillerets. They are the most delicate and elegant Volnay. They are wonderful; when you taste them, you don't even realize you've finished your glass. The greatest quality of a wine is to be elegant while having character."

Serge could go on like this for hours. Wandering through the narrow corridors, touching the bottoms of the bottles, admiring their color, their royal labels. Feeling the excitement. And here we are already in another room, cooler: "Here are the Alsace and Burgundy wines. Well, I have many weaknesses. My favorite wines: for whites, it's Alsatian wines—it's a matter of the heart. Every sommelier should be proud of their region, and particularly in Alsace, where we are fortunate enough, with the variety of grape varieties and the changing climate, to have wonderful wines, like Sylvaner for example."

Serge will soon have to leave his wonderful domain. Today, Monday, July 13, will be his last shift. He leaves the cellar in good hands, with a team of five sommeliers whom he trained himself, passing on the torch and the corkscrew.

"Serge first brought me his knowledge, but above all, I would say, a certain wisdom. You realize that things you once believed to be true evolve. And that's where Serge stepped in, to evolve my knowledge. He was always there, always benevolent. He also made sure that every sommelier maintained their own identity," says Hervé Fleuriel.

After tasting—without exaggeration—a million bottles, Serge will take to the road. His own road, which, we can bet, will also be a wine route.

The article was published on FRANCE 3 ALSACE by Cécile Poure.